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UNEXPLORED, UNEXPECTED
– AND WONDERFUL
For traveller Virna Smith, a “play it by ear” approach to a visit to Tonga had rewarding results
Go on, admit it. We’ve all done it. Despite all the advice six. The female, with her calf following, surfaced to get
that says researching a destination in advance results in some air and broke through the water in a magnificent
a better trip, I arrived in Nuku’alofa, the capital of Tonga, breach. We stared in awe. She spent some time on the
for a four-day stay not really knowing what to see and do. surface with her calf before they both dived again into the
I did know where I was staying though: the Scenic Hotel deep yonder. Her calf surfaced three times for every time
Tonga is less than five minutes’ drive from the airport and the female came up for air.
relaxing at the hotel on the first evening was easy: pre- During our day on the water we were treated to a lunch
dinner drinks in the Siale bar were followed by a delicious stop on Tau, a small uninhabited island with a beautiful
dinner in the Heilala restaurant. beach and good snorkelling. After lunch we took a walk
The next morning I followed up on an impulse to go swim around the island and then topped it off with a fabulous
with the whales and was extremely lucky to get in because swim in the crystal-clear waters before boarding our boat
the eight-passenger capacity whale-watching boats and heading back to find more whales to swim with.
really must be booked in advance. Each year from June to The next day was a Saturday and I decided to spend the
November, hundreds of humpback whales arrive in Tonga. morning at the Nuku’alofa market. Wondering through
The whales spend winter in the warm seas around the the stalls is a wonderful cultural experience. From fresh
islands, mating and bearing their young before returning produce to beautiful handcrafts, the variety and choice is
with their newborn calves on an amazing 8,000-kilometre huge and there is so much to see. The locals are also very
journey to summer feeding grounds in Antarctica. friendly and so talented.
Tonga is one of only two places in the world where you can Saturday afternoon was spent at Scenic Hotel Tonga lazing
swim with the whales – and what an incredible experience around the pool, reading and enjoying the peace and
it is! I set off through Nuku’alofa to the Interisland Ferry tranquillity of the hotel’s beautiful setting in 6.5 hectares
Terminal where I was met by Jeff and his crew from of gardens. If I had been feeling more active I could have
Whale Swim, Fish & Dive and taken out to sea for a day to tried out the 18-hole mini golf course or the golf driving
remember forever! range. Kids staying in the hotel have access to a splendid-
For the first part of the trip our party of eight headed to a looking adventure playground that includes a flying fox. In
coral reef to “practice” our snorkelling to ensure we were the evening I dined again in the Heilala Restaurant whose
competent and comfortable in the water, and to prepare menu combines wonderful local flavours with European
us for our swim with these magnificent mammals. cuisine.
When we spotted a mum and her calf, the excitement on As everybody knows, Sunday in Tonga is celebrated as a
the boat was tangible! We could hardly wait to get into the strict sabbath. No trade is allowed except for essential
water but safety was paramount so we had to settle down services, so what to do? I had heard about Pangaimotu
and listen to the skipper and follow all the commands Island, 30 minutes by boat from Nuku’alofa, where the
from our guide who went into the water with us. locals head after church and often spend the whole
What a surreal experience. There the whales were below afternoon enjoying the beach, the music and fabulous
the surface, gliding gracefully through the water about food.
seven to ten metres away. I found the jetty for Pangaimotu easily as it is clearly
The female was around 14m in length and her calf around marked on the tourism map provided by the hotel. Water
taxis take you to the island on Sundays at 10am, 11am,
HELLOWORLD : EXPLORE : SPRING EDITION
