Page 12 - Explore Magazine Summer 2018
P. 12

10     And when I got up at 6am          waterfall with water cascading just in front of   Glacier Bay is the main attraction in this area
                                                                               and our expectations were high. It’s fair to say
                                            us. Seals congregate close to the glacier for
          and looked out the window         protection from killer whales and the female   that the experience exceeded them. There are
          I was rewarded with the           seals climb onto an iceberg to give birth and   eight tidewater glaciers (glaciers that flow all
                                            keep their pups safe. Lots of Arctic terns nest
                                                                               the way down to the ocean) in the bay and we
          sight of a humpback whale         on the gigantic cliffs and harbour seals duck   were transported ashore to trek to the base of
          breaching out of the water.       and dive. Although it was May (spring) we still   Reid Glacier. On the way we saw bear tracks
                                                                               followed by several wolf tracks. A National
                                            needed layers of clothing and wet weather gear
                                            but the further we got away from the glacier the   Park Ranger and a cultural heritage guide met
          Our next stop was Petersburg, a town founded   warmer we became.     us when we entered the bay and both regaled
          by Norwegian fisherman in the 19th century                           us with stories about the bay and how it was
          and some of the boats here have to be seen   The following day we cruised through Stephens   formed. Once again, being in a small ship meant
          to be believed. They are deep-hulled, strong   Passage towards Juneau and saw a large cruise   we could go really close to the glacier before
          solid boats capable of forging through heavy   ship in the distance, the first we had seen.   taking the inflatables to shore. Everywhere we
          seas. Here we were able to take a hike through   We came to a stop to watch five humpback   looked there are mountains covered in snow, ice
          muskeg land (bog in other words) and forest   whales swim by, some diving and showing   floes floating past, birds fishing and sea otters
          until we came to a tidal river. Sadly for us there   off their flukes. Dinner was ashore at Alaska   wallowing on their backs. If we thought that
          were no bears to be seen but Sitka deer were   Dream’s own island lodge and what a dinner!   was amazing it was surpassed the next day by
          in the town area. The next day we saw the first   Barbecued coho (silver salmon) was served   our visit to the Margerie Glacier in Tarr Bay right
          of the glaciers. A long cruise up Tracy Arm fiord   along with the real reason for dining here –   on the U.S.-Canadian border. Eating breakfast
          70km north of Petersburg brought us first to the   king crab. Delicious. An outside campfire with   while stopped in front of this magnificent blue
          twin North and South Sawyer Glaciers. Words   views of snow-covered mountains finished off a   glacier was a surreal experience, especially as it
          don’t do justice to the sight of a glacier calving   wonderful day.  calved huge chunks of ice every few minutes.
          right in front of you. Blocks of bluer-than-blue
          ice broken off the front of the glacier floated by   Words don’t do justice   As we cruised back to Juneau and the end of our
          as we manoeuvred our way forward. Next we   to the sight of a glacier   cruise we slowed to pass an island covered in
          got into rubber inflatables to get even closer.                      sea birds including tufted puffins, and dozens of
                                            calving chunks of ice right        sea lions waiting to give birth to this year’s pups.
          En route back from the glaciers the captain                          Up close and personal? You bet!
          nosed the ship right up to and into a large   in front of you.





















































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