Page 45 - Explore Magazine Spring 2017
P. 45

our trek to the village of Namche Bazaar, the largest Sherpa village
          in the Kumbu Valley. We crossed into Sagarmatha (Everest) National                                        43
          Park and trekked alongside the Dudh Kosi River to Namche Hill,
          climbing nearly 610 metres on a winding steep track for four and
          a half hours. I walked with another lady and we set our own pace.
          Breathing was hard and I could definitely feel the altitude but the
          views were amazing! We stayed two nights in Namche to rest and
          adjust to the altitude of 3,444 metres and it was a great place for
          picking up supplies for the rest of the trek and buying gifts to take
          home. It was now starting to get quite cold at night and we slept with
          hot water bottles to keep warm.
          We were up early for our next trek to Pangboche and my walking
          buddy Yvonne and I were given a head start as we were the slowest
          in the group. We started at 6.30am from Namche, travelled 6km
          to Tengboche village where we visited the monastery and reached
          Pangboche 3km away at 5.30pm. At an altitude of 3,985 metres it was
          very cold (-4 C.) and breathing was difficult. It was a very long day
          but the scenery was again amazing.

          And that’s where I had my
          life-changing experience: I

          saw how far I had come, what
          I had achieved and what I was

          capable of doing.

          The next morning it was up early again and we went to visit a
          local lama, Lama Gershi, for a special blessing. This day I found
          particularly difficult because when I started out I was struggling
          to breathe after just a couple of steps. I was drinking lots of
          water but had lost my appetite. The next part of our trek took
          us to Pheriche (altitude 4,270 metres) – three hours and 12km of
          hard slog but we made it. The temperature was -14 C. that night
          so I was wrapped up snugly in my sleeping bag.
          Speaking of living at high altitude, it is best to be prepared at
          night because the Diamox medication that you take to reduce
          altitude sickness is a diuretic, and with all the water you drink
          you have to get up during the night. The teahouses (small hotels)
          that travellers stay in have shared bathroom facilities down the
          hall so I had my slipper shoes, torch and jacket waiting beside
          my bed.
          A sleep-in! At 9am the next day we set off on an acclimatisation
          trek uphill to a ridge above Pheriche village. It was so hard and
          coming down was even worse: my trekking poles got a good
          workout and saved me from slipping several times. Once back at
          the teahouse I was not feeling good and was advised not to go
          the next day to Everest Base Camp. My body was experiencing
          mild altitude sickness and after waving goodbye to the group
          my young Sherpa guide Mingma and I headed back to Pangboche
          and waited for three nights for the group to return. I stayed in
          a teahouse called Sonam Lodge where I was well looked after
          by Mingma and the family who own the teahouse. They and the
          village hold a special place in my heart forever.
          The next day our group made the eight-hour trek back to
          Namche where we stayed for a night. On our last day in Nepal
          we took a scenic helicopter flight up to Mt Everest and then back
          to Lukla. We flew over the route we had just trekked and I saw
          where the rest of the group had walked on to Everest Base Camp
          and the amazing mountain itself, up close.
          And that’s where I had my life-changing experience: I saw how
          far I had come, what I had achieved and what I was capable of
          doing. All of this in a beautiful country with amazing people.


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